Bottom-up vs Top-down Knitting: Which do you prefer?

Knitting a sweater or cardigan is a significant commitment, so choosing the right construction method can make all the difference in fit, enjoyment, and overall success. Two common approaches are bottom-up and top-down knitting. Each has its strengths and weaknesses, particularly when considering elements like shaping, seaming, and intricate stitchwork. I'm currently knitting a bottom up cardigan and a top down sweater (my Book Club sweater by Sari Norland is in the image on the left), so I thought now would be a good time to explore the pros and cons of each method to help you decide which suits your next project best.

Bottom-Up Knitting

Bottom-up knitting is the traditional method, where you cast on at the hem and work upwards towards the shoulders. Pieces are often knit flat and seamed together, though seamless options exist. When I first learned to knit all my sweaters and cardigans were knit this way, and that's probably true for a lot of knitters my age.

Pros:

• Structured Fit: Seamed garments, particularly at the shoulders, provide stability and shape, preventing stretching over time.
• Easier Complex Stitchwork: Fair Isle, cables, and other intricate patterns are often easier to manage in smaller, flat sections before seaming.
• Customisation at the Start: If you prefer a tailored fit at the hem, waist, or hips, bottom-up knitting allows adjustments early on.
• Sleeves Can Be Knit Separately: This is ideal for knitters who enjoy working smaller pieces before tackling the full garment.

Cons:

• Commitment Before Shaping: The fit doesn’t become apparent until later in the project, making it harder to adjust as you go.
• Seaming Required: If knitting in pieces, you’ll need to seam the shoulders and sides, which can be a drawback for those who dislike sewing.
• Less Flexible for Length Adjustments: Since you start at the hem, adjusting body or sleeve length mid-project is trickier.

Top-Down Knitting

Top-down knitting begins at the neckline and works downward, often in one seamless piece. Raglan, yoke, and saddle-shoulder designs are particularly well-suited to this method.

Pros:

• Easier Fit Adjustments: You can try on the garment as you knit, adjusting body or sleeve length as needed.
• No Seams: Many top-down sweaters are seamless, making them comfortable to wear and eliminating extra finishing work.
• Motivating Construction: Watching the garment take shape can maintain interest, as the hardest parts (like yokes or shoulders) are completed early.
• Consistent Gauge Across Sections: Since the entire sweater is knit in one piece, there’s less risk of slight gauge variations between sections.

Cons:

• Less Structural Stability: Seamless sweaters can stretch out over time, particularly at the shoulders.
• Challenging Complex Stitchwork: Working Fair Isle or cables in the round over a large number of stitches can be cumbersome.
• Large Project to Handle: As the sweater grows, managing a single heavy piece on circular needles can be unwieldy.

How Construction Affects Different Techniques

• Fair Isle: Bottom-up knitting allows for knitting Fair Isle flat, which some knitters prefer, though top-down works well if you're comfortable with stranded knitting in the round.
• Cables: Stitch definition is typically better in flat knitting, making bottom-up designs more appealing. However, seamless top-down construction allows cables to flow uninterrupted over the shoulders.
• Textured Stitches: Top-down designs often suit seamless textured patterns, but bottom-up knitting gives more stability to dense stitch patterns.

Which Method Should You Choose?

If you prefer structure, stability, and don’t mind seaming, bottom-up knitting is a solid choice. It’s particularly useful for fitted garments and intricate stitchwork. If you enjoy flexibility in fit, minimal finishing, and seeing your garment evolve as you knit, top-down is the way to go.

Ultimately, both methods have their merits. The best approach depends on your knitting style, pattern preferences, and how much you enjoy seaming! Which do you prefer—bottom-up or top-down? Maybe you're like me and have one of each of the needles right now, so you can switch projects, depending on your mood. Share your experiences in the comments!